8 years, from 19 to 27. To visit Karachi after such a time, and the first time as an adult, adult (if that makes any sense) was special. I wasn't there for very long but I tried to fill every moment with a memory. Saw old faces and new, ran a half marathon, become a tourist, bought beautiful things, ate at homes, cafes, street stalls and upscale restaurants.
Of course everything was wonderful, but without my Nani, whose no longer with us, nothing was quite the same. However to be there felt important, and required. I owe my love for food and the yearn to learn all about it, all to her.
I was showered with an insane amount of love and care. I ate whenever offered and every opportunity I saw. There is no denying that the food there is flowing with flavour and depth. Below is a just a snapshot of all that I was incredibly lucky to eat.
Home
A home breakfast - simple but the green chutney, sturdy and strong in its spice. This is a unique breakfast to my family and not one many know about.
A lunch spread at home of chowmein, chicken korma, daal, rice and dahi bare (savoury dumplings in a yogurt sauce). Our cook's version of light, so ....
Simple but special, I crashed the second day I was there but quickly recovered. I spent two days in Doha pre Karachi after what was a busy time post work in London and then straight into a whole day out in Karachi, with no sleep. So things caught up, but this kawa & boiled egg in bed helped enormously.
Aloo Ghost (Meat and Potato curry) , Okra, Chicken Manchurian and Rice. Please also pay attention to the onions in the back, I do not eat food without onions.
These were just some home lunches,& yes I ate out every evening for dinner, there was simply a lot to cover.
Restaurants
Restaurant culture is big in Karachi, food is laughter, its entertainment, its what brings people together. There is nothing you cannot find from; Chinese hotpots, barbecue (a staple), steak, amazing brunch, seafood, sour snacks, decadent deserts ... everything!
One of my favourite meals was this seafood boil. Karachi is a coastal city so this makes sense. The sauce was delicious, the crabs and prawns so juicy and the addition of rice to scoop it all up was perfect.
Brunch and breakfast are big, so below are some of the best ones I had.
& to pay respect to the wondrous baked goods at the Test Kitchen, as you can see below.
Chaat
Chaat is a part of my soul, its a spicy and savoury dish of chickpea's, with lots of onions, several chutneys, the sweet one omitted for me always because no thank you I do not like mixing sweet with savoury. The second picture, is 10/10 the best chaat I have ever had.
Pakistani Chinese
This is quite specific to this part of the world, its chinese food but not like we know it in the UK. It is influenced by Pakistani flavours but is very much a cuisine in its own rights, established for many many years, loved by all.
Nihari
My favourite Pakistani dish is not Biryani, its Nihari. A very rich stew, which is cooked very slowly overnight, best with beef.
Street side
Toasted corn doused in a heavy spicy sour masala, ripe guavas and yes I had fresh coconut water everyday.
Oh I also attended my first ever Pakistani mehndi, which are insanely elaborate affairs. A wedding in Karachi is glamorous and exuberant . A mehndi is the event in the wedding cycle dedicated to all things dancing. Here's me taking it all in and enjoying a kulfi, a decadent creamy Pakistani ice-cream.
I said this elsewhere, but please stop judging a country by the news. But do so by going there, if you can't do that then do so through its food, culture, people, art but please not the news.
(an early sunrise on seaview beach)
(a visit to Quaid-E-Azam's home (the founder of the country - Mohatta Palace)
(ran a half marathon , won a medal, gained an insane amount of respect for everyone who trains in this heat and humidity.)
You're so special Karachi.
